We arrived into Marrakech in the evening on the 9th June 2008 after a long lay over in Madrid coming from London, England. After the usual customs fun we made our way outside to get a ride into town. There were a few taxi's lined up with a sign stating 50Dirhims to town. One of the men approached us & said "Would you like a taxi?". "Is it only 50?" I replied. He said "no! it's 150 to town". Welcome to Morocco I thought. We bypassed the taxi stand & made our way to the bus that just pulled up. Which proved much more fair at only 20Dirhims each.
The ride in to town was one of those experiences that get you excited. The sun was setting & lighting up the sky a fiery red colour, which bounced of the old city walls. We had no idea were the bus was going but it was cheaper & Marrakech didn't really look that big on the flight in.
We got off at the first Medina we saw which just happened to be Jemma El Fna (the main square). As we circled the Medina a few times look for any landmark familiar, we were approached by a few men offering to help for money. One man even tried to call our hotel for directions (which we didn't ask for). Then he told us we had to give him 20 dirhims for the phone call. We told him we didn't want his help & then he replied with a load & clear "Fuck You". Welcome to Marrakech alright.
After trying a few more twists & bends we luckily stumbled across it tucked away in a side street. They don't believe in street signs here which makes it exceptionally hard. Our Riad was called Hotel La Gallia. Our hotel was lovely & had a very Moroccan feel to it. There were intricate tiles & carving all over the walls & floors as well as some really relaxing sun lounges, Moroccan style.
Most of our nights were spent in the big Medina call Jemma El Fna. During the day this place is a busy little spot filled with snake charmers, dancers, acrobats, story tellers & every other kind of money making fantasy you can think up. The people in & around the square can be quite rude & abrupt if you don't give them any money for a photo or just because they want it. I ended up getting quite frustrated with all the touts as I don't just give anyone money, especially when it's a demanding person speaking in French or Arabic. At night Jenna El Fna comes to life when the curtains are raised on hundreds of food stalls. As you walk through you quickly become aware that every menu is exactly the same. The calls go something like this. Omelet, Brochette, Beef Tajine, Chicken Tajine, Fish or Calamari. You here this over & over again as you are pulled & pushed towards a dinner table. The only way they can define themselves from everyone else is to make a call for there stand only. For example, each stand is numbered from 1 to about 150. As you walk past you will here 1..1..7 will take you to heaven. Come in & try! Then if you don't go in, they will ask you "convince me why you can't come in now".
A lot of our days were just filled with walking around through the souks, Medina & new city outside of the old wall's. Like most other Muslim countries no one wants there photo taken & the very sight of a camera will bring calls from near & far of "No Photo, No Photo". But that's fine with me as most of the shots I want were the street scenes & buildings. I don't think Marrakech has that many tourist sights as such. The main things like the gardens & tombs really weren't that great. The best thing about Marrakech is just walking around the streets.
During our stay in Marrakech the temperature was about 40*C. Though the hottest time of the day seemed to be between 2pm & 4pm, when the sun was sitting high in the sky.
All in all I think Marrakech is worth a visit but next time I would only do it for 2 or 3 days at the most. 6 days was by far to much. Even with our 3 day break in between.
We left Marrakech from the 13th to the 15th June to do a 2 night, 3 day trip with Sahara Expeditions who we booked through GOMOCO.
On the 17th June we caught the local CMT bus from Marrakech to Essaouira which cost 65 Dirhams ($10 AUD) & took about 3 hours.
Sahra Desert & Ait Benhaddou
We left Marrakech on the 13th June 2008 for our 2 night, 3 day trip to Ait Benhaddou, Todra Gorge & the Sahara Desert. The company we used was called Sahara Expeditions.
Day 1:
We left Marrakech at 8.00am & drove through the flat landscape until we hit the aptly named "High Atlas Mountains". The Mountain landscape changes quite a bit as you travel further east. From green tree covered cliffs to nothing but brown rocks. Our first stop was Ait Benhaddou. It was also the number one sight I wanted to see in Morocco.
After 4 hours of driving with the temperature pushing 40*C & not to mention no air con in our van, we arrived. We made our way through the small village that sits at the entrance heading in the direction our driver was pointing. As we walked along under the belting sun we rounded the last bend to see Ait Benhaddou. It was pretty impressive but not as much as I thought. Air Benhaddou is a World Heritage Listed mud brick city. I guess the reason it wasn't as impressive as I'd hoped was because most of the houses in Marrakech & on the drive to Ait Benhaddou are mud brick so you see a lot of them. It was still worth the visit though as the buildings are quite a bit bigger then the other ones you see. I was also a little dissapointed by the fact that our driver only gave us 30 minutes here, which really only allowed for some photos & a quick walk inside. That night was spent at a little chateau in the middle of a valley over looking a little stream & huge vertical red rock mountains.
Day 2:
After getting up early we made our way to a small village where we visited a local Berber man's home to look at the process of Moroccan rug making. As soon as we checked out the fields & the village we made our way to Todra Gorge for lunch. We sat here for a while eating more Brochettes for lunch before starting our final 4 hour drive to the Sahara Desert. Today was worse than the day before. We were at about 45*C with no Air Con & now the sun was belting down on us the whole way to the Desert.
The landscape once again was barren & now completely flat, which was a bit of a surprise considering we were on our way to ride camels through the highest sand dunes in Morocco. After a few more hours it was still all flat but then all of a sudden there they were. The highest dunes in Morocco just went straight up out of no where. After meeting the local Bedouins we mounted our camels for the 1.5 hour journey into the dunes & to our camp site. Halfway through the ride the sun began to set which made the dunes turn a brilliant red colour. The sand is actually red anyway but the sunset just made them even more so. After settling into our camp, we both made our way for the biggest sand dune around. It took us at least 30 minutes & several rest stops to climb big bertha but once we got there, the view was more than worth the effort.
That night we ate Tagine chicken with vegetables which was sensational. Our hosts then played some traditional bongo music for us before we decided to call it a night, sleeping on the dunes in the open with nothing but the moon, stars & sand dunes around us. Amazing!
Day 3:
The next morning we rode our camels back though the dunes at sunrise for an equally breathing taking experience before jumping back into our van for the long 12 hour journey back to Marrakech.This experience was well worth the long, long, no air con, sun soaked drive. And I can definitely say we would do it all again in a second. I thought Ait Benhaddou was going to be the highlight of this three day epic trip but I think it was easily over shadowed but the Sahara Desert Camel trek.
Day 1:
We left Marrakech at 8.00am & drove through the flat landscape until we hit the aptly named "High Atlas Mountains". The Mountain landscape changes quite a bit as you travel further east. From green tree covered cliffs to nothing but brown rocks. Our first stop was Ait Benhaddou. It was also the number one sight I wanted to see in Morocco.
After 4 hours of driving with the temperature pushing 40*C & not to mention no air con in our van, we arrived. We made our way through the small village that sits at the entrance heading in the direction our driver was pointing. As we walked along under the belting sun we rounded the last bend to see Ait Benhaddou. It was pretty impressive but not as much as I thought. Air Benhaddou is a World Heritage Listed mud brick city. I guess the reason it wasn't as impressive as I'd hoped was because most of the houses in Marrakech & on the drive to Ait Benhaddou are mud brick so you see a lot of them. It was still worth the visit though as the buildings are quite a bit bigger then the other ones you see. I was also a little dissapointed by the fact that our driver only gave us 30 minutes here, which really only allowed for some photos & a quick walk inside. That night was spent at a little chateau in the middle of a valley over looking a little stream & huge vertical red rock mountains.
Day 2:
After getting up early we made our way to a small village where we visited a local Berber man's home to look at the process of Moroccan rug making. As soon as we checked out the fields & the village we made our way to Todra Gorge for lunch. We sat here for a while eating more Brochettes for lunch before starting our final 4 hour drive to the Sahara Desert. Today was worse than the day before. We were at about 45*C with no Air Con & now the sun was belting down on us the whole way to the Desert.
The landscape once again was barren & now completely flat, which was a bit of a surprise considering we were on our way to ride camels through the highest sand dunes in Morocco. After a few more hours it was still all flat but then all of a sudden there they were. The highest dunes in Morocco just went straight up out of no where. After meeting the local Bedouins we mounted our camels for the 1.5 hour journey into the dunes & to our camp site. Halfway through the ride the sun began to set which made the dunes turn a brilliant red colour. The sand is actually red anyway but the sunset just made them even more so. After settling into our camp, we both made our way for the biggest sand dune around. It took us at least 30 minutes & several rest stops to climb big bertha but once we got there, the view was more than worth the effort.
That night we ate Tagine chicken with vegetables which was sensational. Our hosts then played some traditional bongo music for us before we decided to call it a night, sleeping on the dunes in the open with nothing but the moon, stars & sand dunes around us. Amazing!
Day 3:
The next morning we rode our camels back though the dunes at sunrise for an equally breathing taking experience before jumping back into our van for the long 12 hour journey back to Marrakech.This experience was well worth the long, long, no air con, sun soaked drive. And I can definitely say we would do it all again in a second. I thought Ait Benhaddou was going to be the highlight of this three day epic trip but I think it was easily over shadowed but the Sahara Desert Camel trek.
Essaouira
Essaouira is a small town on the Atlantic coast of Morocco. Besides the Sahara Desert this place would have to be my favourite so far. We've been here fpr 3 nights & the people, food, sights & shopping is so relaxed. Especially if yuo compare it to Marrakech.
There aren't rally that many sites here except for th Medina, city walls & bastion & the cemtetry which has the man who invented the pedestrian crossing light buried inside. We've just found this a fantastic spot to kick back & relax. It's the besy spot to wander, photo, read a book or just sit.
We met a few local shop keeper today who showed us all his spices & explained what they are for. Then as we went to leave he simply said "OK, have a good day". Have a good day, I was waiting for "that will be 20 dirhims" or F*$k you but no, we got a have a nice day. And it was because he was so nice that we went back & boought some stuff even though we didn't need it.
Essaouira is a lovely little town where the buildings are white washed & usually have blue windows & doors. A little like the Greek islands I guess. We really haven't done that much here which has made it one of our favourite spots. Tomorrow we are off to Casablance which doesn't have that good a reputaion with travellrs but hopefully it will b alright. Especially now we are so relaxed.
Our stay in Essaouira was at the Riad Lala Mogador which is in the heart of the Medina & a beautiful little place to stay. We paid 650 Dirims a night which is approximatley $100 AUD.
There aren't rally that many sites here except for th Medina, city walls & bastion & the cemtetry which has the man who invented the pedestrian crossing light buried inside. We've just found this a fantastic spot to kick back & relax. It's the besy spot to wander, photo, read a book or just sit.
We met a few local shop keeper today who showed us all his spices & explained what they are for. Then as we went to leave he simply said "OK, have a good day". Have a good day, I was waiting for "that will be 20 dirhims" or F*$k you but no, we got a have a nice day. And it was because he was so nice that we went back & boought some stuff even though we didn't need it.
Essaouira is a lovely little town where the buildings are white washed & usually have blue windows & doors. A little like the Greek islands I guess. We really haven't done that much here which has made it one of our favourite spots. Tomorrow we are off to Casablance which doesn't have that good a reputaion with travellrs but hopefully it will b alright. Especially now we are so relaxed.
Our stay in Essaouira was at the Riad Lala Mogador which is in the heart of the Medina & a beautiful little place to stay. We paid 650 Dirims a night which is approximatley $100 AUD.
Casablanca
Well most people I have spoke to said don't go to Casablanca, it's horrible. But I kind of wanted to go there just based on the fame Bogart brought to it & obviously to see it for myself.
After catching the CTM bus up the coast for 7 hours, we finally arrived into Casablanca. From here we decided to walk to our hotel, Hotel Cental. Our map said it was just down the road near the Medina so we thought we'd walk as it would be quicker than arguing over the price of a taxi. As we rounded the final corner of the Medina our hotel came into sight. Hmmm.... that's nice I think??? Our hotel stood at the end of a small park looking over all the other buildings. It looked exceptionally old & in need of a restoration but we figured we should see inside before making any comments.
We were greated by the Hotel manager with a one arm grab & a Harlem lean. After giving us our keys we made for the top floor to check it out. Not to bad. It was old & smelt like mothballs but it was better than it looked from the outside. It was basiclly as good as any of the other hostels we had stayed in. Best of all we had a TV to cath up on what was happening in the reat of the world. That eveing we just took it easy with a meal & a drink on the sidewalk followed by a 9.00pm screening of Goldfinger in our room.
That night we went to bed with a large gathering of drunk people 3 stories below us on the street. We just decided to close our doors & try to get some sleep. At about 2.00am we were woke by chairs & tables being dragged along the floor which just happened to be our roof. The drunk tour group decided to move from the street & sit on the roof. This went on until 4.45am which is about the time we figured we were changing hotels the next day.
After lmited sleep we head down the road with all our stuff & checked in to the Hotel Ibis which was only a three star but completly new & plus. Best of all all the rooms were soundproof. At only 650 Dirhims there was nothing stopping us. Today was new day! We showered in our new lovely room & got ready for a day of sight seeing. We picked up some breakfast/lunch at 1.00pm & then headed for the Mosque of Hassan II.
The mosque can be seen from all over Casablanca & is the 3rd biggest in the world behind a mosquw in Mecca & Medina. It's also the only mosque in the world to have a lift to the top of the 200 meter minaret. But the bling did come at a cost for the King, approximatley 800 million was spent which includes the retractable roof. Our tour started at 3.00pm & ran for an hour. They took us inside the prayer hall, abolution rooms & through the Hammam pools which is not part of the mosque but a social gathering area for Muslims & Non-Muslims to meet.
After several hours walking around the Mosque we decided to call it an end to a good day & head back to our luxiourious hotel. But before we could get back to our hotel we walked through quite a few slum areas where one small boy of about 6 thought it would be a good idea to flash & wave his penis about before throwing rocks. If he was mine I would of flogged him but really what do you do in a Muslim country?
Casablanca is nowhere near as bad as people say. Sure it's a bit gritty & just a big Islamic city but it is a nice change to all the Medina's & mudbrick homes. The Mosque of Hassan II is definatly worth visiting especially if you have never been in a mosque before. It is the only Mosque in Morocco that a Non-Muslim can enter. I probably wouldn't suggest any more that 2 nights as there isn't that much to see once you've seen the mosque & taken a walk around the city, but it's a good stop on any long driving itinerary.
We left the next day (22nd June 08) on the CTM bus for Fes, our last stop before Europe.
After catching the CTM bus up the coast for 7 hours, we finally arrived into Casablanca. From here we decided to walk to our hotel, Hotel Cental. Our map said it was just down the road near the Medina so we thought we'd walk as it would be quicker than arguing over the price of a taxi. As we rounded the final corner of the Medina our hotel came into sight. Hmmm.... that's nice I think??? Our hotel stood at the end of a small park looking over all the other buildings. It looked exceptionally old & in need of a restoration but we figured we should see inside before making any comments.
We were greated by the Hotel manager with a one arm grab & a Harlem lean. After giving us our keys we made for the top floor to check it out. Not to bad. It was old & smelt like mothballs but it was better than it looked from the outside. It was basiclly as good as any of the other hostels we had stayed in. Best of all we had a TV to cath up on what was happening in the reat of the world. That eveing we just took it easy with a meal & a drink on the sidewalk followed by a 9.00pm screening of Goldfinger in our room.
That night we went to bed with a large gathering of drunk people 3 stories below us on the street. We just decided to close our doors & try to get some sleep. At about 2.00am we were woke by chairs & tables being dragged along the floor which just happened to be our roof. The drunk tour group decided to move from the street & sit on the roof. This went on until 4.45am which is about the time we figured we were changing hotels the next day.
After lmited sleep we head down the road with all our stuff & checked in to the Hotel Ibis which was only a three star but completly new & plus. Best of all all the rooms were soundproof. At only 650 Dirhims there was nothing stopping us. Today was new day! We showered in our new lovely room & got ready for a day of sight seeing. We picked up some breakfast/lunch at 1.00pm & then headed for the Mosque of Hassan II.
The mosque can be seen from all over Casablanca & is the 3rd biggest in the world behind a mosquw in Mecca & Medina. It's also the only mosque in the world to have a lift to the top of the 200 meter minaret. But the bling did come at a cost for the King, approximatley 800 million was spent which includes the retractable roof. Our tour started at 3.00pm & ran for an hour. They took us inside the prayer hall, abolution rooms & through the Hammam pools which is not part of the mosque but a social gathering area for Muslims & Non-Muslims to meet.
After several hours walking around the Mosque we decided to call it an end to a good day & head back to our luxiourious hotel. But before we could get back to our hotel we walked through quite a few slum areas where one small boy of about 6 thought it would be a good idea to flash & wave his penis about before throwing rocks. If he was mine I would of flogged him but really what do you do in a Muslim country?
Casablanca is nowhere near as bad as people say. Sure it's a bit gritty & just a big Islamic city but it is a nice change to all the Medina's & mudbrick homes. The Mosque of Hassan II is definatly worth visiting especially if you have never been in a mosque before. It is the only Mosque in Morocco that a Non-Muslim can enter. I probably wouldn't suggest any more that 2 nights as there isn't that much to see once you've seen the mosque & taken a walk around the city, but it's a good stop on any long driving itinerary.
We left the next day (22nd June 08) on the CTM bus for Fes, our last stop before Europe.
Fez
We arrive into Fez CTM Bus station at about 1.00pm in the afternoon. After grabbing our bags & heading outside we decided to take a seat & just wait, as our hotel told us they would be sending a taxi. We waited for about 25 minutes before figuring out they either forgot us, or had come & left before we arrived. We decided to start walking to the Medina as we were just getting harrased by an unhappy man who insisted on lecturing us why we have to go with him, because he relies on tourist to make a living (ripping them off). Everytime he got angry he would finish the sentence with "but I'm not hasseling you!".
Good start to Fez I though!
We walked for a few block before deciding to ask a local man for directions. Our luck! He spoke English & better yet he knew where our hotel was & better yet he told a taxi where to go for us & better yet he didn't want any money. See, see ... there really are nice people in Morocco.
We arrived at the city gates knowing the labyrinth of streets that awaited us as we searched for our hotel. But after following our taxi drivers French street direction we managed to find it with not much trouble.
I think I like Fes Medina the most. The people are quite friendly & only ask once or twice if you would have a look in there shop. Most of the time they can't even be bothered to get up out of there seat. Photo's & videos are quite easy here & so far I haven't been ask for a single Dirham for any photo I've taken. Tomorrow we have agreed to use a crazy local man as a 3 hour guide which I hope goes well as I may be starting to like Morocco a little once again. Here's hoping!
We tried to change our flight earlier today as we are both just a little over all things Moroccan. The price to change our flight was $200 each thought which we couldn't see the value in as we only have 3 nights left. Hopefully our decision to stay will pay off & we can leave here on a really good note.
Good start to Fez I though!
We walked for a few block before deciding to ask a local man for directions. Our luck! He spoke English & better yet he knew where our hotel was & better yet he told a taxi where to go for us & better yet he didn't want any money. See, see ... there really are nice people in Morocco.
We arrived at the city gates knowing the labyrinth of streets that awaited us as we searched for our hotel. But after following our taxi drivers French street direction we managed to find it with not much trouble.
I think I like Fes Medina the most. The people are quite friendly & only ask once or twice if you would have a look in there shop. Most of the time they can't even be bothered to get up out of there seat. Photo's & videos are quite easy here & so far I haven't been ask for a single Dirham for any photo I've taken. Tomorrow we have agreed to use a crazy local man as a 3 hour guide which I hope goes well as I may be starting to like Morocco a little once again. Here's hoping!
We tried to change our flight earlier today as we are both just a little over all things Moroccan. The price to change our flight was $200 each thought which we couldn't see the value in as we only have 3 nights left. Hopefully our decision to stay will pay off & we can leave here on a really good note.
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